Miyake Restaurant, Portland, Maine

In 2004, I graduated from the University of Hawai'i at Manoa and accepted a position at Hakuoh University, a private University in Oyama-shi, Japan. At the time, I'd had little experience with Japanese food, and I wasn't sure what to expect in the "Land of the Rising Sun." Lucky for me, a fabulous izakaya run by a charming couple from Kyoto was a short walk from my house, and I dined there a few times each week learning about Japanese cuisine. It was traditional pub food: fantastic soups, karaage, don katsu and katsu don, loads of bites on skewers, and all served with grace and charm. This restaurant, Yuzenya, set the bar high, and few of the restaurants I visited in Japan rose to the level, and only one has come close in Maine. That one is Miyake, not an izakaya, but a sushi restaurant with other dishes to please most palates.

According to the restaurant website, Masa Miyake opened a hole-in-the-wall restaurant in 2007. He quickly gained a loyal following, and since then, he has relocated, opened a second restaurant, Pai Men Miyake, and started a farm to provide a steady supply of high-quality meat and produce for his establishments.

Having already enjoyed a birthday lunch at Pai Men Miyake in the summer

of 2011, I waited eagerly for the chance to visit Miyake Restaurant and try it out for myself. Recently, I spent a couple hours there with friends and family, and I enjoyed the experience immensely. Let me tell you about it.

First, as is sometimes the case with Japanese restaurants, the exterior is understated with signage only near the door. This made it difficult for us to find the restaurant, but, as I was on foot, I found it quickly. I waited outside to welcome my friends, and once they arrived, we went in and were seated promptly at a table near the front. The decor is understated and beautiful, and the restaurant is filled with dark wood, metal, stone, and numerous objects which reflect the Japanese appreciation for things one-of-a-kind. That's enough about that.

My friends and I ordered some appetizers for the table while waiting for the other guests to arrive. Among my favorites were the Yaki Buta, a disc of braised pork belly that melted in my mouth; Tuna 3-Way, traditional sashimi, tuna tartare, and marinated tuna, all of which were exquisite and unique; and the Kamo Tataki, duck breast.

After the rest of our party arrived, we ordered the rest of our lunch, including the crab sushi roll, the Salmon Lady, a selection of sashimi, salads, soups, and more. All of the food was delicious, but the highlight for me was the lobster roll, pictured to the left. The only challenge was that the pieces were quite large and difficult to eat with dignity—I either had to open wide or take it apart on the plate—but that was hardly a real concern. Anyone who knows me knows I have no problem opening my mouth and eating with gusto.

In brief: Miyake isn't cheap. Our lunch for five cost over $300 including beer and sake, but it was well worth it, and we were in the mood to splurge. There are lunch specials, but unless you eat like a bird, spending less than $25 each might be too limiting. We left stuffed to the gills (but didn't eat any gills!) with what was on the wholepart world-class cuisine. The staff were personable, knowledgeable, and friendly in the American tradition, not the Japanese.

This is a "First Impressions" review.

Food: ★★★★☆ Ambience: ★★★★☆ Service: ★★★☆☆

Check, please: $$$

Miyake Restaurant

468 Fore Street,

Portland, Maine

(207) 871-9170