Bourbon Quarter, Saint John, New Brunswick

I recently had the opportunity to travel to Saint John, New Brunswick for a weekend away from home. I chose Saint John after discovering that Portland, Maine would be booked solid for the Columbus Day weekend. It's much like Portland with its strong ties to the ocean, and offers visitors a great selection of restaurants to visit. I was lucky to try three and a cupcake shop all within walking distance of the B&B where I stayed.

The first was Bourbon Quarter, an upscale restaurant with occasional live music recommended by the owners of the Mahogany Manor Bed and Breakfast. I wasn't sure what to expect as I approached the entrance to the restaurant, but I was sure I'd need to sit at the bar, as I hadn't made a reservation. I didn't mind at all, though, as it meant I could watch the bartenders practice their trade, a great way to learn about the entire establishment.

The interior of the restaurant is a sleek and classic and features various different seating areas including a bar wrapped around the end of the kitchen. The brick, dark wood, wrought iron, and leather are all part of a fabulous backdrop for a truly enjoyable dining experience. Here's a picture of one of the seating areas from their website.

After a few minutes perusing the extensive menu, I asked the bartender, Brian, for the first of my three starters, their version of poutine. For those of you who have never eaten this Canadian dish, it is generally a guilty pleasure at best. You see, poutine is a pile of fried potatoes covered with cheese curds and gravy, and while you can make it with fat-free gravy and skim-milk cheese, that's not the way it is usually served. At Bourbon Quarter, the poutine is far from ordinary. Their version is lobster poutine. You read that right, lobster poutine, which they make with brie instead of cheese curds, herbed potato wedges instead of french fries, a creamy creole sauce instead of gravy, and lobster. When Brian set the bowl in front of me, I leaned over and breathed in deeply. The first bite was a revelation, and I was momentarily puzzled by how something so rich could taste so delicious AND light. That's when I tasted the herbs sprinkled around the rim of the bowl and realized the trick was in the thyme. The toasted thyme brightened the entire dish, pulling all the flavors together beautifully. If you like lobster, brie, and aren't afraid of a few calories, this is a dish you should not miss, especially with a glass of whatever dry riesling they were serving that night.

My second starter was another remarkable dish, a warm goat cheese fritter atop a bed of arugula served with chopped beet salad and toasted candied pecans. The fritter was lightly fried and crispy on the outside, but soft inside, and it held its shape as I cut into it with my fork. While very good, I think the pecans would have popped a bit more in the mouth had they been dusted with dried ginger before they were candied. They are sometimes served as a bacon praline, which sounds divine.

My final starter (and final dish) was a plate of perogies made with local wild boar served with two different berry coulis and crème fraiche. Like the arugula salad, this dish was remarkable, but I think I would have enjoyed it more if they had added some caramelized onions to the perogies to enhance the texture and sweeten them up a bit. Still, they were very good.

In brief: Bourbon Quarter is a hit. The food was, for the most part, exceptional, the decor was warm and inviting, and the service was impeccable, the perfect balance of welcoming and professional. This restaurant is worth a visit to Saint John, and I expect to go back again.

This is a "First Impressions" review.

Food: ★★★★☆ Ambience: ★★★★☆ Service: ★★★★★

Check, please: $$$$

Bourbon Quarter

114 Prince William Street,

Saint John, New Brunswick

(506) 214-3618