After I arrived in Oyama-shi, the man who recruited me took me to a tiny izakaya (roughly, pub) a short walk from the school. At that moment, I was more concerned with learning how to dine with people who were my seniors at Hakuoh than with the food, but my first bites were more than delicious enough to lure me back, and I soon became a regular, eating there two or three times a week. The couple who own the restaurant spoke as little English as I spoke Japanese, but were still capable of sharing their love of good food with grace and hospitality.
I slowly worked my way through much of the menu, posting pictures and descriptions on Flickr for my friends to see. The food wasn't haute cuisine, but I've never been a food snob: if it's delicious and well prepared, it's good enough for me.
As you'd expect, though I tried loads of dishes, there were a few standouts that I came back to again and again, including the one pictured on the left. There isn't anything I could say about the rice at Yuzenya that I wouldn't say about all Japanese white rice. When well prepared (and it almost always is), it is slightly sweet and just a bit nutty.
The pork cutlet, which never tasted greasy, was moist and tender inside it's crispy-crunchy panko shell, and was served with katsu sauce on the side. The combination of the textures of tender, juicy meat, crispy coating, and the deep fruit and spice notes of the sauce danced in my mouth with every bite. Even the salad was a revelation to me, mild onions, fresh and sweet, in a sesame dressing that I can't replicate. The miso soup, usually served with small, tender clams and mushrooms, and brightened with green onion, was a staple for me, not only for its wonderful flavor, but also because it had a bit more body than most miso soups. As always, the meal came with small dishes of seasonal vegetables, cooked delicately, or pickled, and they rounded out the meal well.
When most westerners think of Japanese cuisine they think of tofu, sashimi, sushi, and other low fat foods, but the Japanese have a gift for deep frying food, and the chef at Yuzenya is a master, not only for his cutlets, but also for his chicken karaage (ka-ra-a-gay), chunks of thigh meat seasoned with garlic, salt, or lemon, dredged in corn starch, and fried till absolutely mouth-wateringly tender and juicy. Unlike the flaky coating in most American versions of fried chicken, this coating stayed on the chicken and was crisp unlike anything I have ever eaten. In truth, I have never experienced anything quite like it at any Japanese restaurant anywhere. Anywhere. And I have tried.
Another eye-opening morsel that I shall never forget was a seasonal delicacy that the chef offered me one day: hotaruika, or firefly squid. The squid was served apparently raw, though some say that it must be blanched. It was subtle, sweet, and unexpectedly delicious. When I bit into it, liquid the texture of creme anglaise burst in my mouth. I'm not sure what it was, but it was divine and tasted like savory plum. Squid ink?
The first few times I went to Yuzenya, I wondered if I was so impressed by it because it was truly remarkable, or because I simply hadn't had enough experience with Japanese food. Later, the answer to that question became clear. Even my Japanese friends who came to visit me from "away," as we say in Maine, wondered if this izakaya was as good as I had insisted. But when they tried it, they realized that I hadn't exaggerated. They confirmed that Yuzenya was truly an "ichiban" (number one) Japanese izakaya.
In short: Yuzenya is a great little restaurant in a small city, a restaurant most will not be lucky enough to find. The food is exceptionally well prepared, and in a world of fusion cuisine, eating traditional izakaya food is a delight. The service is great, too. Last I knew, the restaurant was in a new location, a brighter, larger place.
Food: ★★★★★ Ambience: ★★★★☆ Service: ★★★★☆
Check, please: $$
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