When you live in this part of Maine, in one of the busiest tourist areas, you get used to having access to things that most rural areas don't have, but the millions of people who visit this gorgeous party of the planet expect those things. We have better cell reception than more populous towns further south, breweries, wineries, bakeries, dozens of organic farms, and more. But there are also things you don't have, like a good Vietnamese restaurant. Fortunately for us, Little Vietnam opened earlier this year in Bangor, and offers local diners another choice for tasty Asian fare.
Little Vietnam popped up on a web search this summer, but at the time, there weren't enough reviews for me to decide if it was worth trying. The reviews I did see, though, suggested that the staffing at the restaurant might be a little light, so I knew that it would make no sense to go for lunch, when I wouldn't want to risk taking too much time. Dinner time, it was. When I entered the small storefront about 4:45 on a Monday, there were only three people in the place, but I still had to wait a few minutes for someone to seat me. Though a bit slow, the service was very polite. Later on, it became clear that this is a family operation, and that folks who are uptight about service and atmosphere probably shouldn't visit. The food, however, made the trip well worth while, and if that's your focus, pay them a visit. To the food...
First, I ordered bánh mì, a traditional baguette sandwich made with Vietnamese ham, which is actually closer to a pork sausage with the fine texture of pâté, cucumber, cilantro, and shredded carrots. While it was good, when I've eaten these sandwiches in the past, they've typically come loaded with pickled julienned carrot and sometimes other vegetable, like daikon, and it was missed tonight.
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| The Chicken Sate at Little Vietnam |
The chicken sate was more than delicious. It was the best chicken on a stick I've ever had. It was juicy, tender, and rich with a lime-based marinade. The peanut sauce left a bit to be desired, though, it wasn't as flavorful and thick as it is at most of the Thai restaurants I've visited. Now, I should add that I am not an expert on Vietnamese cuisine having only eaten it on six or seven occasions in Korea, Japan, and the U.S., never in Vietnam, so this could be just what Vietnamese peanut sauce should taste like.
After eating those two appetizers, I should have paid the check and left, but what trip to a Vietnamese restaurant would be complete without trying the pho? No trip. Again, I'm no expert, so let me simply describe the dish. It was a large bowl with a heap of rice noodles, beef, and scallions in a rich broth, which was the star of this meal. The savory sweetness of the soup was balanced by Asian basil (which has a stronger anise taste than the basil we see in Italian cuisine), the tartness of fresh lime, the bite of fresh jalapeño slices, and the warm depth of sriracha hot sauce. The pho alone is enough food for two, that is, if you have someone with whom to share a "Lady and the Tramp" moment.
Though it's hard to judge a restaurant like Little Vietnam based on only one visit, the experience I had tonight will certainly bring me back, and given how rare it is to find a Vietnamese restaurant in this part of The Pine Tree State, I hope you'll join me. These folks need us to get the word out. Note: "check please' reflects the cost of the entire meal, which was more than I normally would have ordered.
Food: ★★★☆☆ Ambience: ★★☆☆☆ Service: ★★★☆☆
Check, please: $$
Little Vietnam
687 Hogan Road,
Bangor, Maine, 04401
(207) 945-0073
